Label Memoir V

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I bought this 1983 Riesling on auction for something ridiculous, like $15 a bottle. It was unreal: fresh, highlighter yellow/green, viscous. It was enough to instill an obsession with aged Riesling. It was a great vintage, one of the last ones from a great estate.

From Classical Wines:

Upon secularization of the Mosel by Napoleon, one of the first great private wine estates to be established was that of Peter Nicolay in Ürzig, including the finest sites in Ürzig, Erden, Wehlen, Graach and Zeltingen. Through marriage and inheritance Nicolay became C.H. (Carl Hubert) Berres, which continued to produce and market the estate’s great Rieslings under the Peter Nicolay brand until 1986, when the estate was divided upon inheritance.

Carl Hubert’s grandson Alfred (father of Markus) retained nearly 10 acres of old, ungrafted Riesling vines in the best sites, including Ürzig’s famous Würzgarten and legendary, minuscule Goldwingert, and Erden’s Treppchen. While fine wines continued to be made in the original Berres/Nicolay cellars, sales were limited to the local trade, with significant accumulation of great 1990s vintages in the Berres cellars as a result.

Ürzig and Erden are famous for their red slate soils and singular rock outcroppings that retain heat and concentrate the typical herb-spice of the wines. These are the only villages in the Mosel allowed to replant without grafting, as phylloxera was never able to penetrate the rock barriers.

 

 

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