Bourgogne Battle

Two years apart and geologically divergent. Priced nearly the same.

Frederic Esmonin is more conventional than Sylvie. This drink is skin ripe and as tart as expected. Spoof vigilantes might find evidence of chaptalization, the effect being a clean fruit profile, as simple as it is appropriately varietal. We want this with baked potato, butter, and cooked mushrooms.

The aroma and taste of aloe, or agave, is a marker for me of natural red wine fermentations in the Loire watershed. Chemically this blends with a suggestion of mushrooms, serving to complement the edgy sour berry sap typical of the terroir. I seem to recall that diligent mustard wines – or Moutard-Diligent – are grown in the Yonne Department, which would explain all of these flavors. Steer the food pairings here in the direction of slower braises, earthier cheeses, and weirder companions.


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